Here are some tips and advise for railcar construction, maintenance and operation.
Construction:
- For the small increase in cost, vibration nuts (sometimes called aviation nuts) are good insurance against bolts loosening up.
- Proper torque causes a bolt to stretch to its' design specification and provide optimum clamping ability. Always use a torque wrench.
- Holes for cotter pins are there for cotter pins, NOT nails, NOT wire, NOT tie wraps, cotter pins.
- A McMaster-Carr catalog (3,600 + pages) should be a part of every shop. For those not farmilar with MC, you will be amazed with what is available in this mechanical "Bible". They also have an on-line catalog a www.mcmaster.com.
- In my humble opinion, a rear view mirror should be manditory as part of the NARCOA mechanical standards. Just sticking a flag out the window, along with a brake light, and assuming that the car behind you is going to stop is folly. Knowing the distance of the car behind you is additional information that helps you to make a safe stop and possibly prevent a rear end collision.
Maintenance:
- Use a good heavy gear lube in your MT transmission. Make sure the lube is rated GL-4, GL-5 lubricants can be corrosive to certain components in MT transmissions. Sta-Lube 140W GL-4 is readily available at any NAPA store in 1 gallon containers, P/N SL24238, for about $30.
- Grease your bearings often. A few pumps of grease can keep you from having to change a bearing and could even save an excursion from disaster!
- Use straight 30 weight oil in 4 stroke engines. This is 100% oil, as opposed to multi-viscosity oils, of which a certain percentage of their make-up is NON-LUBRICATING additives.
- Check your wheels for thickness and profile, you would be amazed at what a difference new wheels can make in your car tracking ability.
- Check fuel filters and sediment bowls often. A large percentage of excursion breakdowns are related to fuel system contamination. Don't forget gas tank "floaters" that can easily block the fuel outlet in the tank.
- Ethanol seems to be raising hell with rubber fuel system components these days. Where possible, replace fuel system components with ones that are compatible with ethanol. Unfortunatly, this may be limited to mostly fuel lines. Our NEGS 100 car has a rubber tube, probably a section of radiator hose, connecting the fill to the tank. Two years of ethanol have turned it to mush and it will need replacement this winter, along with removal and cleaning of the fuel tank.
- Onan car owners, carry a spare ignition condenser. In the last two years (about 20 excursions) we have seen three Onan breakdowns due to failed condensers.
- Motorcycle chain lubes offer superior performance, are designed for far more demanding conditions than would ever be found in a railcar, tend not to attract and hold dirt and dust, AND don't sling off and make a mess in the tunnel. If you choose to use them, it wouldn't hurt to start with a clean chain and sprockets.
Operation:
- Keep plenty of distance from the car in front of you to avoid rear end collisions, especially in cold (frost) or wet conditions.
- Reduce speed over switches, especially facing point. Switch points and spring frogs are like little alligators waiting to bite you in the ass as you go through them.
- ALWAYS assume that, at any unflagged crossing, there will be a motor vehicle that wants to be there at the same time you do. "Blow and go" if you have the visibility on the approaches, "stop and go" if not. Disregarding this tip could prove VERY costly. Tonnage always wins!
Music: "Locomotive Breath" from Jethro Tull Origonal Masters
